Old shanty houses round Okusawa

As a city, Tokyo isn't really known for its affection for old buildings.

Aside from the fact the historical structures in this metropolis were either (a) destroyed in the big 'quake of 1923 or (b) carpet bombed by the U.S. Army Air Forces in WW2, and the fact that there's an ongoing risk from further earthquakes, the residents themselves (generally) seem to see buildings 25 years or older as eyesores - in the way of modernization or funky new apartment blocks.


So, aside from areas where you can find lots of history, like in Yanesen, near Nippori, it sometimes feels that Melbourne, a 162-year-old city, has more preserved "real" history than Tokyo, a city that's in its 406th year as a capital - but was a village before that.

In Okusawa (in Setagaya-Ku), a fairly expensive residential area, there are some absolute gems of weatherboard houses tucked away around corners and down moldy alleys. For me, this reminds me that I'm in Japan, and not just another western city with McDonald's and 7-Eleven stores.

One of my faves was demolished a couple of years ago, however, and made into... a car park. The fate of the rest also doesn't look too promising; my theory is that once the elderly residents die out, their abodes will be razed and made into apartments.


Yesterday and today I set out to take some happy snaps for posterity, and here are just a few of these wunderbar places that give the local area... character.

Truth to tell, tho', I wouldn't choose to live in any of them in this 'quake-prone country and given the absolutely oppressive humidity in summer. Looking is another matter.

Nihon Minkaen Open-Air Folk House Museum

A hidden treasure trove of historical artifacts, this one is located on the side of a huge hill in the middle of a forest, located about 15 minutes’ walk from Noborito Station, just 25 minutes by train from Kawasaki - and entry costs ¥500 for hours of incidentally educational fun!

Apparently (according the propaganda hand-outs they give you) in order to preserve historic architecture from around Japan, from 1965 the city of Kawasaki began dismantling historical houses dating back to the 17th Century and relocated them here, so that now there're 25 fascinating structures, including a shrine, a watermill, and a kabuki theater.

Functional furniture, tools and utensils are also kept, as well as recreations of original thatch roofing and tatami flooring — and there’s a wunderbar soba restaurant hidden away in one of the old farmhouses.

All up it's a mesmerizing, surprisingly quiet place that transports you away from this bustling metropolis to a more tranquil time, where no neon signage or J-pop pervaded our everyday activities.

And - just occasionally - that’s a wee bit of a blessing.